Best ACDelco D1846A OE Service Engine Oil Pressure Sensor Deals

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List Price: $86.24
Sale Price: $44.67
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I noticed the oil gauge in my 2003 Chevy Tahoe would max out to 80psi before I even got the engine started, so some research indicated the oil sending unit was most likely the culprit. Got a new oil sending unit and the oil psi returned to normal.

Just be warned that if you never replaced this part before, it is an absolute PAIN to get to, as it's nestled right behind the intake manifold (at least on the Tahoe) in a place where you can't visibly see it and have to squeeze your hands into a very uncomfortable spot to feel it out. You definitely want to get a socket made specifically for an oil sending unit install, because the spot is so tight that if you try and use a socket that is the right size for the nut but has thick walls, it will never slide down and fit properly. A proper oil sending unit socket will have thinner walls to allow it to slip into a tight spot and a nut on top to use an open wrench on if necessary.

For a Chevy Tahoe:

1. Disconnect battery.

2. Remove plastic intake cover.

3. You'll need to position yourself over the engine so you can reach down and directly behind the intake manifold, so make sure everything is cool. It's best to approach this from the left side, or passenger side, as there is a bit more room to reach in with your left hand than right hand.

4. Follow the oil sending unit cable to feel out where it is and disconnect the cable (has a plastic clip on one side -be careful not to snap it off).

5. Once you know where the top of the sender unit is, slip the socket over it and once it's orientated properly, make sure it slides over the unit completely.

6. Attach your socket wrench (you'll want an extender and preferably an adapter that permits angles) and begin to remove the sending unit.

7. Once you have the old sending unit removed, place the new sending unit in the socket BEFORE maneuvering it into place (remember you can't see where the hole is), as it will be much easier to position it into place and hand-tighten it with the socket already in place.

8. Once it's in the hole and hand tightened as best as possible, attach socket wrench and tighten.

9. Reattach the oil sending unit plug. You'll know the right way to position it by lining up the clip on the plug with the notch on the sending unit.

10. Reconnect battery and test.

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Oil Pressure gauge in 2003 Tahoe was not longer registering any pressure. I ended up doing a little research and everyone suggested replacing the sensor. I am not a mechanic. Replacing it would hove not been an issue, except for the location of the sensor. It is pretty much in the worst place possible. See moonlighteye's steps in his review I found those and another set on steps online with pictures. Both were super helpful.

Also, purchase the OEM 25254 Oil Pressure Switch Socket. Could not have gotten the old sensor out or the new one in without it.

Once I replaced it, my oil pressure gauge starting registering again. Easy and cheap fix if you have the patience.

Best Deals for ACDelco D1846A OE Service Engine Oil Pressure Sensor

This is a genuine AC Delco oil pressure sensor...best on the planet as it is not Chinese made crap. Works like it should and only thing I can say is they are a little difficult to replace in the vehicle. Just be diligent and you will get the job done. Suggest buying a 1-1/4" (27mm) thinwall socket for the removal/install...you WILL need it.

Honest reviews on ACDelco D1846A OE Service Engine Oil Pressure Sensor

Fixed my problem of my oil pressure gauge issues, I just wish it was cheaper. But hey my last one lasted 77k miles so lets hope for another 70k.

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This switch/sensor was a perfect replacement for the defective switch on my 2003 Chevrolet Silvarado with the 5.3 L V8. If you don't have the socket designed for this switch (Lisle 13250 Oil Pressure Switch Socket ), then it is impossible to install, With the $8 socket , it is almost, but not quite, impossible. A couple of long 3/8 in. drive extension bars and a flex joint are necessary for both removal of the old switch and installation of the new one. The big hint is to place the new switch in the socket and feed it down to the invisible, empty hole on the block (behind the intake manifold and partially under the firewall) and start it by hand. Once you are sure it is not cross-threaded, and that the socket is still firmly seated on the new switch, you can tighten with a ratchet. Otherwise, you run the risk of breaking off the new switch's wiring socket (which you will almost certainly do in removing the old switch). The entire operation is done by Braille. Unless you have extremely small hands, a couple of band-aids are also necessary as your hand will be bleeding from all the sharp objects you assuredly will encounter down there. My project went smoothly and took only about 30 minutes from start to finish.