Best Wedco Oil Drain Pan Deals

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List Price: $18.49
Sale Price: $16.99
Today's Bonus: 8% Off

This is a very sturdy container with an excellent design. I changed my own oil for the first time using this, and made virtually no mess at all. The handle makes it easy to carry and it does not appear to leak. As another reviewer mentioned, the circle in the side of the container is actually a funnel, which detatches and screws into the hole in the side of the container. I do not see this as a flaw in the product. From a functional standpoint, It really makes no difference since the funnel attaches in seconds and has a large enough diameter so that it can easily catch all of the draining oil. It's true that the funnel needs to be cleaned, however it's not much of a hassle at all, and any oil container should be cleaned periodically. Overall, this is a considerable improvement over existing designs that have large lids on the side, which tend to be prone to leaks.

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I read the reviews and was hoping that I'd finally found a storage container that wouldn't leak. I made it through one oil change with no problems. Yesterday I left my truck to drain into the container for the second change while I went inside for lunch. Came back out and there was oil all over my garage floor coming from the top cap of the container. I tried to tighten the cap to stop the leaking with no luck. I'm going to try the 15 Quart Oil Drain Pan/Recycling Container that claims to have a patented leak proof design from oilfiltersonline.com to see if I have better luck.

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Ordered this on-line and paid shipping as I can no longer find it in stores. My old one had the gasket go bad after many years of service. New design is even an improvement since there is no longer an opening at the bottom. Its small profile lets me side it under my BMW Z3 without jacking it up until the tailpipe drags. Made of tough Polypropylene. Ones sold in auto parts stores are useless junk by comparison.

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The funnel in this unit is worth the price of the who drain container unit.

I don't use the container, anymore. I use a used one gallon used squat one gallon orange container. It fits under the emgine area with plenty of room to spare, when the car is on ramps. It captures most all the oil from the filter change, and the filter can be allowed to drain into the bottle, after you slide the assembly from under the car. Walmart, unlike most auto parts stores, keeps the container. I left the black container with them, when it became full. But I kept the funnnel.

After the fill the Go-Jo bottle, I transfer the oile to another bottle that I can discard. It screws onto the top of most antifreeze or cheap windshield washer bottles. You don't even need the drain container.

I use the large funnel often for transferring all sorts of liquids into plastic bottles without spilling the liquid.

This is one super funnel.

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I ordered 2 of these and when they arrived they were as I expected with the exception that one of the tanks was missing the yellow screw cap. I contacted the seller and left voicemails but have never heard back from them on the missing piece. Product will work fine and a telecoping catch funnel would help get it closer to oil drain hole on the trucks.

Would have ranked it higher but non response from seller is a major issue for me.

W Craig

Buy OTC 6903 2.3L Oil Filter Wrench Socket for Ford/Mazda

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List Price: $20.95
Sale Price: $13.15
Today's Bonus: 37% Off

This filter wrench works great for my 2007 Ford Fusion. The Fusion has absolutely no space around the filter since it is recessed up a few inches and I used to spend 20 minutes busting my knuckles trying to get channel lock pliers to grip. Regarding the user who said it doesn't have space for allen wrench to get in, well that's because it's not needed to remove the filter cap. The allen wrench merely removes the small drain plug in the cap to let the oil drain out before you pull the whole cap off. You remove the drain plug first and let it empty, then use this wrench to remove the black plastic cap to change the filter cartridge. I tried using standard size filter wrenches but the only ones stocked locally are 15 flutes which won't fit the 2.3l cap. Overall this has been a great time saver.

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Part works like a charm to remove the oil filter on a 2008 Mazda 6 4cyl car. I've tried other plastic tools from various retailers and they have been either too small, too big or slip off...this one fits the perfect.

Like the other reviews say... you still have to use a 6mm Allen key to remove the plug from the plastic housing and let the oil drain out before using this tool to remove the plastic housing and get to the internal oil filter (cartridge style). Great product, highly recommended!!!

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This product worked great and the price was good too! I was surprised that I could not get this item from the local auto parts stores or from the local Ford dealers either. One local product was made out of plastic and .5mm larger. I tried it hoping for the best but, it didn't work at all. This oil filter socket is well made (metal) and will last forever.

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Fits the Mazdaspeed 6 oil filter housing cover perfectly. Obviously, you need a 3/8" socket wrench. Be sure to have a 6 mm Allen wrench handy in order to remove the drain plug in the filter housing. Things are a lot less messy if you remove the plug after draining the crankcase and before removing the filter housing cover with this tool and your socket wrench. You need to be sure to seat the Allen wrench deeply into the hex hole in the plug -some gorillas managed to "round off" the more superficial level of the hex hole on my car...

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Don't change your Mazda5 oil filter without one of these. It fits the filter housing perfectly.

Best ACDelco D1846A OE Service Engine Oil Pressure Sensor Deals

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List Price: $86.24
Sale Price: $44.67
Today's Bonus: 48% Off

I noticed the oil gauge in my 2003 Chevy Tahoe would max out to 80psi before I even got the engine started, so some research indicated the oil sending unit was most likely the culprit. Got a new oil sending unit and the oil psi returned to normal.

Just be warned that if you never replaced this part before, it is an absolute PAIN to get to, as it's nestled right behind the intake manifold (at least on the Tahoe) in a place where you can't visibly see it and have to squeeze your hands into a very uncomfortable spot to feel it out. You definitely want to get a socket made specifically for an oil sending unit install, because the spot is so tight that if you try and use a socket that is the right size for the nut but has thick walls, it will never slide down and fit properly. A proper oil sending unit socket will have thinner walls to allow it to slip into a tight spot and a nut on top to use an open wrench on if necessary.

For a Chevy Tahoe:

1. Disconnect battery.

2. Remove plastic intake cover.

3. You'll need to position yourself over the engine so you can reach down and directly behind the intake manifold, so make sure everything is cool. It's best to approach this from the left side, or passenger side, as there is a bit more room to reach in with your left hand than right hand.

4. Follow the oil sending unit cable to feel out where it is and disconnect the cable (has a plastic clip on one side -be careful not to snap it off).

5. Once you know where the top of the sender unit is, slip the socket over it and once it's orientated properly, make sure it slides over the unit completely.

6. Attach your socket wrench (you'll want an extender and preferably an adapter that permits angles) and begin to remove the sending unit.

7. Once you have the old sending unit removed, place the new sending unit in the socket BEFORE maneuvering it into place (remember you can't see where the hole is), as it will be much easier to position it into place and hand-tighten it with the socket already in place.

8. Once it's in the hole and hand tightened as best as possible, attach socket wrench and tighten.

9. Reattach the oil sending unit plug. You'll know the right way to position it by lining up the clip on the plug with the notch on the sending unit.

10. Reconnect battery and test.

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Oil Pressure gauge in 2003 Tahoe was not longer registering any pressure. I ended up doing a little research and everyone suggested replacing the sensor. I am not a mechanic. Replacing it would hove not been an issue, except for the location of the sensor. It is pretty much in the worst place possible. See moonlighteye's steps in his review I found those and another set on steps online with pictures. Both were super helpful.

Also, purchase the OEM 25254 Oil Pressure Switch Socket. Could not have gotten the old sensor out or the new one in without it.

Once I replaced it, my oil pressure gauge starting registering again. Easy and cheap fix if you have the patience.

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This is a genuine AC Delco oil pressure sensor...best on the planet as it is not Chinese made crap. Works like it should and only thing I can say is they are a little difficult to replace in the vehicle. Just be diligent and you will get the job done. Suggest buying a 1-1/4" (27mm) thinwall socket for the removal/install...you WILL need it.

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Fixed my problem of my oil pressure gauge issues, I just wish it was cheaper. But hey my last one lasted 77k miles so lets hope for another 70k.

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This switch/sensor was a perfect replacement for the defective switch on my 2003 Chevrolet Silvarado with the 5.3 L V8. If you don't have the socket designed for this switch (Lisle 13250 Oil Pressure Switch Socket ), then it is impossible to install, With the $8 socket , it is almost, but not quite, impossible. A couple of long 3/8 in. drive extension bars and a flex joint are necessary for both removal of the old switch and installation of the new one. The big hint is to place the new switch in the socket and feed it down to the invisible, empty hole on the block (behind the intake manifold and partially under the firewall) and start it by hand. Once you are sure it is not cross-threaded, and that the socket is still firmly seated on the new switch, you can tighten with a ratchet. Otherwise, you run the risk of breaking off the new switch's wiring socket (which you will almost certainly do in removing the old switch). The entire operation is done by Braille. Unless you have extremely small hands, a couple of band-aids are also necessary as your hand will be bleeding from all the sharp objects you assuredly will encounter down there. My project went smoothly and took only about 30 minutes from start to finish.