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This valve worked great. I have these on a 2003 Ford Expedition, 2000 BMW M Coupe, 2007 Jeep Patriot and a 1984 Mercedes 300SD.
The key thing prior to installation is to look at your oil pan and see how the oil pan bolt is situated. Replacing the oil pan bolt with a Fumoto valve is not difficult, but you need to make sure that there is clearance for the valve to take the place of the oil pan bolt. Some oil pans have their bolts recessed in place, making installation of the Fumoto Valve impossible. This is where the correct extender needs to be used.
I recommend when getting a Fumoto Valve, to always get the one with a nipple. It will have an "N" designation in its model, like "F-106N" vs non-nipple model "F-106". The nipple lends itself to easier cleaning and also lets you clamp an oil hose with hose clamp so that you can better direct the oil flow. Once the hose is one, simply switch the valve open and let the oil drain out.
The only problem you'll need to watch out for, and depending on the design of the oil pan, you'll need to take care to see how the Fumoto Valve will be situated on the oil pan. It may protrude from the bottom of the oil pan and there is a chance that if you run over something, the valve may get hit. So, just keep this in mind while driving. The likelihood of having something hit it is rare though.
I will share my story that on my 1984 Mercedes which is very heavy with very bad shocks bottomed out while I drop over a large bump. It lifted the car, like any other bump would do, but upon landing on the ground, the bad shocks did not do much to absorb the rebound and the car's shocks bottomed out. Not a big deal except I heard a crunch and I knew if was the Fumoto Valve that scraped along the ground. I saw no trail of oil in my rear view mirror. When I got home, I jacked up the car. No oil spill, but I shaved a good portion of the nipple off the Fumoto Valve. It's still functional, but that was mostly my fault driving fast over a bump in a very heavy car with very bad shocks. The remaining valves in my fleet have been performing perfectly!
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If your oil plug faces down at the very bottom of the pan like mine, I would not recommend this at all. The short version: It doesn't drain all of the oil.
At first, this seemed like a great idea to me. I was a little nervous about the valve accidentally opening but convinced myself they had thought of this themselves when they designed this thing, so I went ahead and installed on on my car. I like that I can attach a hose before I open the valve and don't get any splash or get my hand drenched with hot oil. I figured this was a really great idea but I always wondered why manufacturers didn't use this from the factory. It made me a little nervous that it is hanging down there just asking to get nocked off but in reality, this would probably never happen except in an accident or something and I would know about it before the engine was damaged.
A few months later, I went to replace the oil pan gasket so I drained the oil using this valve and removed the bolts around the pan. I noticed that when I tilted the pan, more oil drained even though the drain is located at the very lowest point in the pan. Then when the pan was removed, I saw why this was happening. It did not drain all of the oil. The valve extends into the pan.
The drain valve threads into the hole in the bottom of the pan, but it also extends through the hole, in my case by about 3/16". So when you open the valve, all but the last 3/16" of oil is drained, not ALL of the oil. Also, any thing heavy (carbon chips, metal chips) stays in the pan instead of draining out with the oil.
I could modify this by cutting the threaded part shorter but it's brass and I'm afraid there might not be enough threads to insure it stays tight. In short, I'm going back to a drain plug. The drain plug drains about 3 4 times faster than this valve and I'm sure that all of the oil gets drained.
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I purchased this for my 2009 Acura RDX so that I can do the oil change due to the high cost if you take it to have it serviced because it requires synthetic oil.
I purchased the F106N and the ADP106 extension. After reading about the product from their website, I was not sure if I needed the extension. I checked the oil pan and it was recessed so I order the extension. However, given that I had not seen this product before, there was a bit of apprehension when you buy something for the first time without any experience of a product such as the quick valve.
The extension and valve fit great. I read that you don't want to overtighten as you may strip the screw on the quick valve (it's brass) or far worse, the inset thread. That got me worried. So I installed the assembly and I wanted to make sure that the release valve was positioned on top so when it started to get tight, I turned it a bit more to have the valve release on top. On the last bit of turn, I heard a "click or a snap" and my first thought was "crap, I stripped or broke the valve". Well, since I had drained the oil, I couldn't tell and I didn't want to take it off so I continued with the oil change. After I poured the first pint of oil, I check under the RDX to see if there was any leak. Whew, no leak. So I finished the oil change.
5,000 miles later, on the next oil change, I pressed fitted a tube and turned the valve. The oil snaked through the tube and into the drain pan without a mess. It worked great. By far the cleanest oil change ever. I highly recommend this product. Now, if someone can come up with a less messy way to change the oil filter, I am all set.
Hope this helps.
Honest reviews on Fumoto F-106N Engine Oil Drain Valve
It's a good quality valve, and the other reviewer is correct that it takes longer to drain. But oh so much better than handling that hot drain plug, dropping it in the oil pan, getting the drain oil running down your arm well, you know the drill....
BUT WATCH OUT!! the valve is actually too easy to open.... running over some brush or twigs could easily slap the lever to the open position and it will stay there and not spring back - then you'd better be watching your pressure gage and carrying 4 quarts of spare oil (yeah, right). I got a small steel hose clamp and put it on the boss of the valve just above the lever (upper part of the valve in the photo). With the hose clamp snugged down and tightened up, it is absolutely impossible to open this valve. Yes, it's one more (small) step to loosen the hose clamp in order to drain the oil, but I think it's well worth the safety precaution.
Would have been 5 stars except for this frailty.
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These valves are really a great addition to anyone changing oil. I first put one on my Arizona Bronco back in 1984, and had ZERO problems for the 15 years I drove it. And when I sold it, I took the valve off and kept it! In all my on & off-roading, it never leaked, and it was never damaged by rocks, underbrush, or ice (yeah, Arizona gets snow too).
When I bought my Expedition, I wasn't able to find one of these valves (old one didn't fit), and I've suffered for too long without one. So I got the idea to look for one today while changing the oil. Well found it, bought it, and I'm writing this review all within ten minutes. No reason to waste time, you oughta just buy one too.
Oh, and I gotta add some comments being an engineer type. These valves use a globe type valve, so they have excellent sealing properties. That's why gas and high quality water lines in your house use them they leak a LOT less. Next, they are already made with a shorter threaded stem to allow ALL the oil (including any grit or shavings) to drain out. Regular solid plugs have about twice the threaded length. Magnetic "getters" used before and after the Fumoto, show no difference. If there is a bit of oil left in the pan (if you ever drop it), it's probably because the vehicle was tilted slightly away from the drain hole when the oil was drained (and so it never fully drained). To be sure to drain everything, you should always jack and block the vehicle to tilt it towards the drain. My drain is in the back of the oil pan, so I drive the truck up a set a ramps on a slightly uphill driveway, and then safety block the rear wheels. Takes five minutes to do, and gives me tons of workspace under the truck. Lastly, I got the one with a nipple end, so that I can add a short piece of 3/8" clear vinyl tubing (hardware store has it). A bit messy to clean the tube, but a lot less mess if wind blows the oil stream around while it drains.
